Myanmar: A Land of Golden Pagodas

An unforgettable journey through Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan — exploring the timeless beauty, rich Buddhist heritage and warm hospitality of one of Southeast Asia’s most fascinating countries.

Myanmar: A Land of Many Splendours

One of the most fascinating, yet least-travelled countries in Southeast Asia is Myanmar (formerly Burma). It is one of the largest countries in the region, with a multiethnic population of approximately 55 million and a land area of 676,227 square kilometres. It shares its borders with China, India, Bangladesh, Laos and Thailand.

Steeped in history and culture, and blessed with a varied and captivating landscape, Myanmar is a land of many splendours. It is home to incomparable Buddhist monuments and relics and has much to offer foreign visitors.

Despite its abundant natural resources and a population with a high literacy rate, Myanmar remains one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia. What has brought this about?

A Troubled Political Past

The main factors are political, particularly the rigid system of government imposed by the military junta, which seized power in 1962 following a successful coup. The democratically elected government was ousted, and the coup leaders chose to pursue their own brand of socialism as the way forward.

The regime eschewed foreign economic aid and accepted only selective outside investments, which the country badly needed. Its stated objectives were to safeguard national integrity and strive for self-reliance as the path to national development, having previously suffered the indignity and exploitation of British colonial rule.

This policy led to severe restrictions on basic human rights. Those who opposed the excesses of the military dictatorship were arbitrarily arrested and imprisoned without a fair trial.

The political repression culminated in the prolonged detention of the nationally popular Aung San Suu Kyi, even after she and her party won a landslide electoral victory over candidates favoured by the ruling junta. Her party was nevertheless prevented from taking office, and the military dictatorship continued to hold sway.

This led to economic sanctions imposed by the United States, the European Union and Canada, which remained in force at the time of our visit. Consequently, the country’s economy stagnated, and foreign investments in government-approved projects were few and far between.

Tourism became an obvious casualty, as most Western governments discouraged their nationals from visiting Myanmar in protest against its deteriorating human rights record and the continuing detention of Suu Kyi and other political dissidents.

A Glimmer of Hope for Tourism

However, following the release of Aung San Suu Kyi in November 2010, more foreign tourists began returning to Myanmar.

I was confident that, with significantly more tourist arrivals expected in the coming years, both domestic and foreign entrepreneurs would invest greater financial resources in improving the country’s tourism amenities and facilities. This would enable Myanmar to cater to an expanding international tourist market, an important source of revenue for both developed and developing countries.

At the time, Myanmar received a little over half a million tourists annually, a figure that paled in comparison with those of Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and even tiny Singapore.

Returning to Yangon: A City of Golden Splendour

My wife and I first visited Yangon, Myanmar’s former capital, ten years earlier. We spent only three days there and, because of time constraints, did not venture beyond the city.

Nevertheless, we managed to see all its principal attractions, including, of course, the world-famous Shwedagon Pagoda, the nation’s premier Buddhist monument and our main reason for visiting the city.

Early in 2011, my wife and I returned to Myanmar, accompanied by our eldest son, CT, for a nine-day holiday. This time, our principal destinations were the internationally renowned cities of Mandalay and Bagan.

The holiday was our son’s birthday present to his beloved mother. He took charge of all the planning, carefully selecting the places we would visit and ensuring that it would be a memorable holiday we would cherish for years to come.

We stayed in good hotels and hired a car with a driver and guide throughout our journey. The costs were considerably lower than those in many other Southeast Asian countries. Our driver and guide were thoroughly professional, competent and attentive, and they served us exceptionally well.

Although February was a late-winter month, the average midday temperature was still in the 30s Celsius. Fortunately, it became more comfortable in the late afternoon, while the nights were pleasantly crisp and cool.

We therefore arranged our sightseeing for the early mornings and late afternoons, spending the hottest hours resting in the cool comfort of our hotel rooms. This arrangement worked perfectly for us.

Shwedagon Pagoda: Myanmar’s Spiritual Heart

We began with a return visit to the magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda.

According to Buddhist tradition, eight strands of Lord Buddha’s hair are enshrined in its treasure chamber, and the pagoda is believed to be more than two thousand years old.

The majestic structure glitters both day and night, its exterior adorned with layer upon layer of pure gold leaf and numerous precious gemstones accumulated over the centuries. The funds for these embellishments have come from Burmese devotees from all walks of life.

A fresh layer of pure gold leaf is traditionally added to the pagoda every seven years. Other prominent pagodas throughout Myanmar, including those in Mandalay and Bagan, are similarly adorned with layers of gold.

Our guide explained that, by performing acts of merit to honour Buddha, praying fervently at pagodas and temples, and faithfully observing the tenets of Buddhism in everyday life, devotees hope to secure a better existence in their next life.

Buddhism teaches that human beings undergo successive rebirths and that the circumstances of one’s future existence depend upon how one has lived in the present.

This, our guide explained, is what many devotees come to Shwedagon to pray for — rather than merely seeking greater wealth or a more comfortable life in the present.

It was a deeply moving spiritual experience to walk barefoot around the pagoda grounds, witnessing the sincerity and reverence with which devotees of all ages offered their prayers. Many brought offerings of fruits and flowers, in addition to making cash donations.

Surrounding the main pagoda are numerous pavilions and buildings illustrating the life of Buddha and the principles of his teachings. There are also meeting and exhibition rooms, as well as a museum-like collection showcasing Buddhist artefacts and other religious relics donated to Shwedagon over many generations.

Exploring Yangon’s Colonial Heritage

Our next stop was a tour of the city centre, with its many colonial buildings and other interesting Burmese landmarks.

I noticed that downtown Yangon had changed little in appearance since our previous visit, apart from the construction of several new office and residential buildings.

What had changed noticeably was the proliferation of motor vehicles, including motor scooters, with hardly any bicycles in sight. This seemed to be a sign of economic progress.

Yet, despite traffic congestion along major roads during peak hours, motorists appeared remarkably disciplined. Hardly anyone was seen honking impatiently, as is so common in other Southeast Asian cities.

The bustling Chinatown and Indian quarter, situated on the fringes of the adjoining city centre, added colour and vibrancy to Yangon’s urban landscape.

Aung San Suu Kyi’s House: A Symbol of Courage

We rounded off our 24-hour stay in Yangon with a slow drive past the much-photographed home of Aung San Suu Kyi on University Avenue.

Its tall, instantly recognisable red gate, topped with spikes, had become a powerful symbol of her long struggle for democracy.

It was from behind this gate that this heroic freedom fighter would stand on a stool to address large crowds of supporters on the rare occasions permitted by her captors during her detention. She addressed her supporters there again following her release on 13 November 2010.

During our previous visit to Yangon, the street on which her house stood had been closed to ordinary traffic and guarded by policemen. Only authorised vehicles were permitted to enter.

Mandalay: In the Footsteps of Kings and Monks

We flew from Yangon to Mandalay, Myanmar’s second-largest city, on a 90-minute flight that included a half-hour stopover at Heho to drop off and pick up passengers travelling to and from the famed resort of Inle Lake.

Mandalay was once the royal capital of Myanmar. Like Bagan, it boasts numerous magnificent pagodas and temples and is one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations.

We decided to concentrate on the finest of these religious monuments while also exploring several other attractions that distinguish Mandalay from its celebrated rival, Bagan.

Four of these sights deserve special mention.

Maha Gan Dayone Monastery: A Life of Discipline and Devotion

Our first stop was the Maha Gan Dayone Monastery, renowned for the training and religious nurturing of young novice monks.

Life in the monastery is spartan and demanding.

The monks’ daily routine begins at dawn, when they set out in small groups carrying their alms bowls to receive food from nearby villagers. The villagers gladly offer rice and other provisions, regarding such generosity as an act of religious merit.

The monks then return to their monastery for a substantial vegetarian meal, donated by devotees and prepared by regular teams of volunteers.

All food must be consumed before noon, and no further meals are permitted until the following morning.

The remainder of the day is devoted to religious study, prayers and assigned household chores.

As the time approaches for ordination as fully fledged monks, the novices must decide whether they are prepared to embrace such a demanding religious lifestyle for the rest of their lives and whether they possess the determination and self-discipline to persevere.

Our guide told us that the number of novices choosing not to continue remained relatively low, although it was increasing.

For their parents, having a son successfully enter the monkhood is considered a great honour.

U Bein Bridge: An Enduring Teakwood Masterpiece

A short walk from the monastery brought us to U Pein Village, where life appeared to have changed little over the past two hundred years.

Here stands the famous U Bein Bridge, celebrated as the world’s longest teakwood bridge. Dating back more than a century and a half, it stretches across Taungthaman Lake and the surrounding landscape.

We walked along this remarkable structure, marvelling at its fine workmanship and excellent condition despite generations of continuous use.

It was a wonderful reminder of the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the people of old Mandalay.

Mingun Pagoda and the Great Bronze Bell

A short car journey away lies the unfinished Mingun Pagoda, situated on the flat banks of the mighty Ayeyarwady River, the lifeblood of Myanmar.

The enormous pagoda was commissioned by King Bodawpaya, but his death in 1819 left the ambitious project uncompleted.

Our son climbed the numerous steps to the top and was rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and its scattered Buddhist monuments and relics.

Another extraordinary attraction is the Mingun Bell, one of the world’s largest functioning bronze bells, weighing approximately 90 tonnes. It had originally been intended for installation at the great pagoda.

Mandalay Hill: A Spectacular Sunset Panorama

A leisurely climb up the steps of Mandalay Hill, one of the city’s most prominent vantage points, is an exhilarating experience.

The reward is a magnificent 360-degree panorama of Mandalay and its surroundings, with many important landmarks clearly visible in the distance.

The best time to visit is at sunset, when the golden rays of the setting sun gradually fade beneath the distant horizon.

It is a truly memorable spectacle.

Kuthodaw Pagoda: The World’s Largest Book

On our final day in Mandalay, we visited Kuthodaw Pagoda to admire one of the most extraordinary expressions of Buddhist devotion.

Here, hundreds of Buddhist scriptures have been painstakingly inscribed on identical slabs of pristine white marble, each housed within its own small shrine.

Together, these inscriptions form what is often described as the world’s largest book.

The sheer magnitude of the undertaking, and the elegance with which the sacred texts were inscribed, are astonishing.

Surely, this was a labour of deep love and devotion. What an awesome sight to behold!

It was a fitting conclusion to our short but delightful stay in Mandalay.

Bagan: A Timeless Kingdom of Thousands of Pagodas

The flight from Mandalay to Bagan took only half an hour.

As our aircraft approached the airport, we could already see countless clusters of pagodas and temples scattered across a vast, relatively flat landscape.

To call Bagan a city is perhaps something of a misnomer. It consists of several rather small townships and numerous surrounding villages.

These towns have modest main streets lined with shops, provision stores and a handful of simple eating places serving the local population.

The many hotels and restaurants cater primarily to tourists who come from all over the world to marvel at the extraordinary wealth of pagodas, temples, monasteries and other Buddhist monuments for which Bagan is famous.

The Glorious Kingdom of Ancient Bagan

The historic area of Bagan extends over a vast plain. During its heyday, between the 11th and 13th centuries, it was a thriving Buddhist kingdom and trading centre, with a population estimated at approximately 300,000.

Under the patronage of successive kings, members of the nobility and other wealthy citizens, more than 5,000 pagodas, temples, monasteries and religious monuments were constructed.

The devotees commissioned these magnificent structures to earn religious merit, hoping ultimately to escape the cycle of rebirth and attain Nibbana, the Buddhist state of liberation and enlightenment.

Buddhists in Myanmar traditionally regard the construction of a pagoda as one of the highest expressions of religious merit.

Consequently, countless pagodas are scattered throughout the country, reflecting the deep faith and devotion of its people.

Nowhere, however, is this religious heritage more dramatically displayed than in Bagan, where thousands of sacred structures once stood in close proximity.

Myanmar truly deserves its evocative description as the Land of Golden Pagodas.

Sadly, many of Bagan’s monuments were damaged or destroyed over the centuries by earthquakes, including a devastating one in 1975, as well as by other causes.

Nevertheless, more than 2,500 monuments survived, bearing witness to the splendour of the ancient kingdom and preserving its extraordinary cultural and religious heritage for posterity.

Discovering Bagan at Our Own Pace

With so much to see and so little time, we instructed our guide to show us only the very best attractions Bagan had to offer, at a comfortable and leisurely pace.

Our plan was to visit no more than four sites a day, with a maximum of sixteen during our stay.

This allowed us to savour each experience rather than rush from one monument to another.

Ananda Temple: A Masterpiece of Buddhist Architecture

Our first destination was the architecturally magnificent Ananda Temple, built by King Kyansittha towards the end of the 11th century.

It is widely regarded as one of Bagan’s most beautiful and celebrated religious structures.

Imposing in both size and splendour, its extensive grounds contain numerous pavilions, beautifully decorated with religious themes depicting the life and teachings of Buddha.

Like many of Bagan’s great temples, Ananda is crowned by a strikingly tall, golden spire.

The cavernous interior contains ancient frescoes, Buddha statues in various manifestations, and intricately carved sandstone reliefs.

One particularly remarkable carving depicts the Nativity Scene — Queen Maya giving birth to Prince Siddhattha, the future Buddha. It is regarded as a work of exceptional artistry.

Perhaps the most admired treasure of this 11th-century temple is an exquisitely crafted wooden statue of the standing Buddha, situated near the main entrance.

Measuring approximately 9.5 metres in height, the statue is remarkable for the subtle changes in Buddha’s facial expression when viewed from different angles.

Throughout the temple’s opening hours, many devotees instinctively kneel before this magnificent statue in deep and reverent prayer.

It is an experience that leaves a lasting impression.

Mahabodhi Pagoda: An Architectural Link with India

Another monument worthy of special mention is Mahabodhi Pagoda, built by King Htilominlo in the early 13th century.

Unlike the more lavishly decorated temples of Bagan, Mahabodhi presents a comparatively austere appearance.

Its architectural style closely resembles that of the famous Mahabodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya, in India’s Bihar state.

Its most distinctive feature is its pyramid-shaped spire, which appears to reach towards the blue sky.

Another remarkable characteristic is the array of approximately 450 beautifully crafted Buddha images, set within niches on all four sides of this architectural wonder.

Unlike many of Bagan’s other celebrated pagodas, Mahabodhi is not covered in gold, reflecting its distinctive Indian architectural influence.

Its understated elegance makes it no less impressive.

Moonlit Pagodas: A Magical Evening in Bagan

After a satisfying day of sightseeing, we returned to our hotel for a relaxing open-air dinner by the swimming pool.

A short distance beyond the hotel grounds stood a small cluster of 12th-century pagodas and temples.

Their graceful silhouettes, illuminated by the moonlight beneath a star-studded sky, took on a magical, timeless beauty.

It was a sight of extraordinary tranquillity.

Early the following morning, our son rose before dawn to explore these ancient relics.

Some were so small that their interiors could accommodate only two to four worshippers at a time.

Such intimate places of worship offered a fascinating contrast to the grand and imposing temples elsewhere in Bagan.

Shwezigon Pagoda: A Golden Beacon on the Plains

The following days were filled with excitement and anticipation as we visited several other pagodas and temples, each reflecting different architectural styles, historical periods and religious traditions.

Among the most impressive was the regal and majestic Shwezigon Pagoda.

Commissioned by the powerful King Anawrahta, it was completed in 1077 by his successor, King Kyansittha, who also built the celebrated Ananda Temple.

Shwezigon is among the most lavishly gilded pagodas in Bagan.

Its golden exterior glitters by day and night, like a magnificent beacon rising from the surrounding plains.

Among its many treasures and religious artefacts are four superbly crafted standing Buddha statues, housed within sumptuously appointed, palace-like pavilions surrounding the magnificent pagoda.

The grandeur of the monument is matched by the reverence with which it is regarded by Buddhist devotees.

Shwesandaw Pagoda: A Breathtaking View of Bagan

Another monument deserving special mention is the more modestly constructed 11th-century Shwesandaw Pagoda.

Surrounded by smaller pagodas and temples in a peaceful rural setting, its principal claim to fame is the belief that it enshrines sacred relics of Buddha.

The pagoda rises from a rectangular base supported by five substantial stone terraces, reached by steep flights of steps.

At the time of our visit, it was one of the best places from which to admire the breathtaking beauty of Bagan’s countryside and the graceful spectacle of sunset.

Our son undertook the arduous climb to the upper terrace, where he was rewarded with a panoramic view of the surrounding plains and their countless ancient monuments.

His efforts were amply rewarded.

It made his day.

A Sunset Cruise on the Mighty Ayeyarwady River

After four tiring but thoroughly delightful days of pagoda and temple hopping, it was a welcome change to conclude our memorable Myanmar holiday with a 90-minute sunset cruise on the mighty Ayeyarwady River.

This great river is one of Myanmar’s principal waterways, along which travellers can undertake extended journeys through the heart of the country.

We had a comfortable, traditional Burmese-style boat entirely to ourselves.

The river was calm, and a gentle, continuous breeze made the journey exceptionally relaxing.

I could easily have been lulled into a sweet afternoon nap, but I resisted the temptation, unwilling to miss any part of this enchanting experience.

As we glided peacefully along the river, I felt completely at ease with the world. The cares and stresses of city living seemed to have been carried away by the breeze.

It was delightful to watch the local people, young and old, bathing in the river and spontaneously waving to us as we passed.

Along the riverbanks stood numerous Buddhist monuments and relics, including some that we had visited earlier in our journey.

Our guide’s lively and informative commentary brought both the river and the surrounding landmarks vividly to life.

As the sun slowly descended towards the horizon, I suddenly realised that I had developed a deep affinity for this truly fascinating and timeless land, with its wonderfully warm-hearted and hospitable inhabitants.

I knew, there and then, that I would return before long.

Why Was Bagan Not a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

At the time of our visit, one question must surely have been on the minds of many people: why had such an ancient and extraordinary treasure as Bagan not been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status, when many seemingly less remarkable sites in both the East and West had already received that distinction?

This was a controversial question, and there were differing perspectives.

UNESCO, the United Nations agency responsible for education, science and culture, maintained that Bagan had been on its tentative World Heritage List since 1996.

However, it raised concerns that Myanmar’s military authorities had undertaken unauthorised alterations and restoration works on Buddhist monuments, contrary to the organisation’s conservation guidelines and recommendations.

On the other hand, many people, both within and outside Myanmar, believed that Bagan’s exclusion was influenced largely by political considerations.

They argued that Myanmar’s unacceptable human rights record, and its treatment as a pariah state by several powerful Western countries, had made UNESCO reluctant to accord Bagan the recognition it deserved.

Whatever the underlying reasons, I felt strongly that Bagan’s extraordinary cultural, historical and religious significance merited international recognition and preservation.

Editor’s update: Bagan was subsequently inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2019.

Practical Advice for Visiting Myanmar

The most pleasant time to visit Myanmar is during the dry season, particularly between November and January, when daytime temperatures are generally cooler and more comfortable for sightseeing.

For travellers wishing to appreciate the country’s remarkable religious monuments and historical heritage, I would strongly recommend engaging the services of a competent and knowledgeable local guide.

A good guide not only provides useful explanations and historical context but also enhances the entire travel experience.

We were fortunate to have such a guide, whose professionalism, knowledge and helpfulness contributed greatly to the enjoyment of our holiday.

I would confidently recommend his services to interested visitors.

Our guide: Aung Zaw

A university graduate and experienced local guide.

• Email: ZawZaw21@gmail.com
• Mobile: 09-49268974

These contact details date from the original journey and have not been independently verified.

A Final Reflection: Two Great Treasures of Southeast Asia

Cambodia’s Angkor temples and Myanmar’s Bagan are generally regarded as two of Southeast Asia’s greatest repositories of Buddhist art and architectural treasures.

Both bear remarkable testimony to the religious devotion, artistic achievements and architectural ingenuity of the civilisations that created them.

Having now experienced the magnificence of Bagan, I was reminded of my earlier travels to Cambodia and the extraordinary splendour of Angkor.

I would therefore like to share with readers an article I wrote about the Angkor temples, published in Singapore’s The Straits Times in 2001.

That article follows this account of our memorable journey through Myanmar.

Postscript: Myanmar’s Political Developments, 2010–2026

Updated on 25 October 2026

Aung San Suu Kyi: From Freedom to Political Leadership and Renewed Detention

Since the original article was written, Myanmar has experienced dramatic political developments, particularly involving Aung San Suu Kyi, whose struggle for democracy has long attracted international attention.

Her journey from prolonged house arrest to political leadership, followed by renewed detention, has been both remarkable and tragic.

2010: Release from House Arrest

Aung San Suu Kyi was released by Myanmar’s military junta on 13 November 2010, shortly after a general election boycotted by her political party, the National League for Democracy (NLD).

Her release marked a significant turning point in Myanmar’s political history and renewed hopes for democratic reform.

2012: Entry into Parliament

The NLD subsequently re-registered as a political party, and Suu Kyi won a parliamentary seat in the 2012 by-elections.

She entered the national parliament and became the country’s most prominent opposition leader.

2015: A Landslide Electoral Victory

Under her leadership, the NLD secured a landslide victory in Myanmar’s 2015 general election.

However, a constitutional provision prevented Suu Kyi from becoming President.

Instead, she assumed the positions of State Counsellor and Foreign Minister, effectively becoming Myanmar’s civilian political leader.

2019: International Condemnation over the Rohingya Crisis

In December 2019, Aung San Suu Kyi faced severe international criticism for defending Myanmar against allegations of genocide involving the Rohingya Muslim minority.

She appeared before the International Court of Justice (ICJ) in The Hague, where her defence of Myanmar’s position attracted widespread condemnation and significantly diminished her international reputation.

2020–2021: Electoral Victory Followed by Another Military Coup

The NLD won another resounding victory in the November 2020 general election.

Sadly, in February 2021, the military, led by Senior General Min Aung Hlaing, overthrew the elected government and detained Aung San Suu Kyi along with other senior NLD leaders.

The coup brought Myanmar’s period of civilian-led government to an abrupt end and plunged the country into renewed political turmoil.

2021–2026: Trials, Imprisonment and House Detention

Following a series of closed-door trials conducted under military authority, Suu Kyi was convicted on numerous charges, including corruption, election-related offences and violations of COVID-19 regulations.

Her prison sentences initially totalled 33 years, although they were subsequently reduced through a series of commutations.

The NLD was formally dissolved, while Suu Kyi and other party leaders remained in detention.

After a prolonged period of imprisonment, much of it reportedly spent in isolation, Myanmar’s authorities announced in April 2026 that Suu Kyi would serve the remainder of her reduced sentence under house arrest.

A Political Legacy

Aung San Suu Kyi turned 80 in June 2025. Given her advanced age, prolonged detention and Myanmar’s uncertain political future, it seems increasingly unlikely that she will return to an active leadership role.

Her political career has been marked by extraordinary achievements, profound controversy and personal sacrifice.

In recognition of her peaceful struggle for democracy and human rights, she was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1991.

Whatever history’s ultimate judgement of her political legacy, Aung San Suu Kyi remains one of the most consequential and widely recognised figures in modern Myanmar’s history.

Myanmar remains a land of extraordinary beauty, deep spiritual traditions and remarkable cultural treasures. My memories of its magnificent pagodas, peaceful countryside and hospitable people remain as vivid as ever.

 

Lam Pin Foo