Lam Pin Foo

Malacca, the oldest Malaysian city, was founded by a Sumatran prince in exile, Parameswara, in the rear 1396, and became the first sultanate kingdom among the various states in Malaya. Its golden era was the reign of Sultan Mansur Shah (1458-1477), when it rose to be one of the well-known entreports in the world and an international emporium. Its fame attracted Chinese, Indian, Arab and Southeast Asian traders, with their myriad goods and produces, to trade in the city. Some of the traders subsequently settled and raised their families here and their descendants have helped to mould its plural society into what it is today.

The Kingdom of Malacca came to a tragic end in 1511. It was ruled, successively, by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British and the Japanese for close to 450 years, all of whom left their varying marks. It became a state of independent Malaya in 1957.

It has achieved many firsts in its turbulent but glorious history. Islam reached Malaya from the Middle East via  Malacca. It has the oldest extant Chinese temple, Christian church, Islamic mosque and Hindu temple in present day Malaysia and neighbouring Singapore; and Tengku Abdul Rahman, the first premier of both Malaya and later Malaysia, first broke the news of Malaya’s impending independence from the British colonial rule to a cheering crowd of 50,000 here. Malaysia came into being in 1963 and now comprises not only the former states of Malaya but also Sarawak and Sabah, with its capital in Kuala Lumpur.

Malacca shares several similarities with another ancient city in Vietnam, Hoian. Both have the rare distinction of having the entire city conferred the coveted World Heritage Site status by UNESCO, both have many centuries old monuments and other historic buildings of Asian and European vintages in very good state of preservation, as well as the fusion of eastern and western cultures, as it, too, was a significant international trading port in  its heyday. Also,  just like Malacca, Hoian was colonised by foreign powers before Vietnam regained its independence.

Malacca  has always been one of the favourite weekend holiday destinations of Singaporeans, as it is only about 220 kilometers from Singapore and it takes about three hours by car to reach there travelling along Malaysia’s excellent North-South Highway. The completion of the Second Link at Tuas, which connects Singapore to Malaysia by a splendid new causeway, is a real boon to Singaporean motorists bound for Malaysia’s historic city of Malacca and further north to Kuala Lumpur and beyond. It has greatly relieved perennial traffic congestion at the older causeway, especially at peak hours and holiday period. Many Singaporeans own seaside condominium apartments in Malacca as their second homes as they are much cheaper than those across the causeway.

Recently, my wife and I had a most enjoyable motoring experience using this new link en route to Malacca for a three-day stay. We cleared the respective immigration checkpoints in next to no time, a commendable feat compared with the three-hour bumper-to-bumper traffic jam we got ourselves into at both ends of the older causeway in last December.

The initial drive to Senai along the expressway was a breeze. The refreshing sight of the seemingly endless stretch of palm oil plantations, bathed in brilliant sunlight and surrounded by vast expanses of uncultivated land with distant mountain peaks, contrasted starkly with the highly-urbanised cityscape of land-hungry Singapore. Arriving at Senai about half an hour later, we entered the  North-South Highway for a straight and smooth two-hour drive to Malacca, exiting at Ayer Keroh.

One often reads about heart-breaking fatal accidents on this highway, sometimes involving whole families. For our own safety, I drove safely and defensively and was ever vigilant in keeping to the speed limit of 110 km. I was also on the constant lookout for reckless drivers and inconsiderate road users, not to mention the occasional straying animals.

Despite its small size, Malacca has much to offer visitors. There are more than fifty attractions listed by the local tourism board, with twenty within the city precincts and the others in the outskirts. With limited time available, and being a regular visitor as it is one of my family’s preferred Malaysian destinations, we decided to take it unhurriedly in order to soak in the ambiance of our favourite spots, and leaving the others for our next trip.

Happily for tourists, many of the popular attractions are conveniently situated in the old town and are best covered by foot or trishaw, whose bilingual rider can cheerfully double up as a knowledgeable guide at no extra cost! But do agree on the fare first.

Our first stop was the History Museum, which is appropriately housed in the Stadhuys, a massive 17th century Dutch edifice. It was the administrative hub of the colonial offices and residence of the Dutch governor and it dominates the entire old town square. This gave us an excellent overview of Malacca’s colourful past and its subsequent development.

Right next door is the impressive Christ Church built by the Dutch, which dates back to 1753. Its original church organ and hand-made pews are still in very good condition. The church bell predated it and is of early 17th century vintage. It is still a thriving church and one of the most visited tourist spots here. There are a couple of notable Catholic churches in other parts of town that are well worth a visit for their outstanding architecture and historical significance.

We continued walking a short distance to the Santiago Gate, the only surviving gate of the once mighty Portuguese fortress built immediately after their conquest of Malacca in 1511. Within its original walls were  churches, hospitals, schools, the governor’s residence and living quarters of other senior government officials. The fortress, which is the pride and the most recognisable landmark of the city, was severely damaged, but later repaired, by the Dutch during their successful siege of Malacca in 1641. It was blown to smithereens by the British occupation forces in 1807 for fear that it might otherwise fall into a hostile hand.

Behind Santiago Gate is the famous ruins of St Paul’s Church, completed around 1520, which sits at the top of St Paul’s Hill which can be reached by concrete steps. The body of the highly-venerated Jesuit priest, St Francis Xavier, a frequent visitor to Malacca and who died in 1552, was interred at this church temporarily before being removed to Goa in India for final entombment. There are many old Portuguese and Dutch tomb stones scattered among the ruins.

From colonial Portuguese and Dutch relics, we climbed up the Bukit China (Chinese Hill), which is some distance from town. It has a fascinating history and is reputed to be the largest Chinese burial ground outside of China. Old tombs abound, with some dating back to the 16th century. Many still have inscriptions on them revealing the identities of the tomb occupants.

The first Chinese probably settled in Malacca during the 15th century. However, following the epic sea voyages of the great Chinese admiral and explorer Zhenghe to Nanyang, including Malacca, and as far as East Africa from 1405-1433 China’s prestige overseas rose immensely, and more Chinese migrated to Malacca and other parts of Southeast Asia. They were warmly received by the natives.

Many legends of the Admiral’s exploits in Malacca have been passed down from generation to generation. An 18th century temple, the Sam Po Kong, is dedicated to his memory. It is at the foot of Bukit China. There is a romantic story about the origins of Bukit China. When Sultan Mansur Shah married Princess Hang Li Poh, a daughter of a Ming emperor, he built her a palace on this hill, with living quarters for the imperial bride and her entourage of 500. He also decreed that it be for the exclusive use of the Chinese community in perpetuity, a promise the state government still honours today. Whether this marriage did happen has never been firmly established and the official Ming History did not record it.

The Cheng Hoon Teng Chinese Taoist temple was founded by Kapitan Tay Hong Yong, the local Chinese chief, in mid-1600s. It is well-preserved, and has elaborately-carved wood works and exquisite stone sculptures as well as delightful lacquer pieces for adornments. It is a must-see for its Ming style architecture when one visits Malacca.

Across the road from the temple is the historic Kampong Kling’s Mosque, which is about  250 years old. Its architectural uniqueness is reflected in the harmonious fusions of  Moorish, Chinese and European influences.

No visit to Malacca is complete without taking a leisurely stroll down the narrow Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, commonly called the Millionaires’ Row. Built as the town houses of the wealthy Peranakan (local-born) Chinese families, many of these sumptuous terrace houses, measuring some 60 meters from front to rear with courtyards, are 200 to 300 years old. Some are still lived in by the original owners’ descendants, while others had been converted into art galleries and other commercial enterprises.

To experience the once lavish lifestyle of the affluent Babas and Nyonyas, the local-born Chinese men and women , we dropped in at the Peranakan Heritage House, which had an interesting and informative conducted-tour for a small admission fee, to experience the way of life of of the rich here in their heyday before WW II. It was well worth a visit. I was most impressed by the exquisite teak and gold-gilted staircase leading to the spacious living quarters.

When the Portuguese conquered Malacca, they encouraged their men to marry local women and they also brought over from Portugal their own women to be the wives of the high-born local Malay men. They believed that mixed marriages will ensure that their rule will continue indefinitely as these descendants would owe allegiance to Portugal and be proud of their heritage. Thus, the Portuguese Settlement came into being and is still inhabited by their descendants. The more ambitious among them had long ago sought greener pastures in Singapore or Kuala Lumpur and many had become prominent civil servants, lawyers or doctors. Those who stayed behind generally earn their living as fishermen or run modest restaurants or provision shops at the settlement, which is in a suburb of the town. It is not a popular tourist spot except for those interested in Malacca history.

To round off our sightseeing in Malacca, we boarded a large Chinese junk for a 45-minute cruise with commentary on the Malacca River. It had played an important role in the history of this ancient city, especially in its international maritime trade, the daily life of its residents and in its defence against the invading forces. We passed very close to the old quarters, with their centuries old houses and other well known landmarks and old settlements. These gave us a better insight into this delightful town and its changing fortunes through the vicissitude of times. I will certainly recommend this interesting and informative cruise to all visitors.

Jalan Hang Jebat, the renowned Antiques Row, runs parallel to the Millionaires’ Row, and boasts of more than 50 antique shops and art galleries. A few even have cafes at the rear. It is de rigueur for all visitors to spend an enjoyable time here to browse and, perchance, to find an exceptional bargain! Among the good buys are antique Nyonya silver belts and other Peranakan ornaments. Some Singaporeans are drawn to reproductions of antique Malacca furniture and old Nyonya ware porcelain with its polychrome of colours.
Yet another delight is the ubiquitous Peranakan food, being a mixed Chinese and Malay cuisines, which has a distinctive and unique flavour all its own. Although the dishes are somewhat limited in variety,  they are so delicious that it is easy to be addicted to it.

We love coming to Malacca from time to time because of its medieval feel and laid-back charm of a bygone age. We particularly enjoy traversing its back lanes and alleyways which make us feel like being transported back in time to the 19th century.

Be that as it may, Malacca is no longer a “sleepy hollow” it once was. Several new townships have sprung up, with quality shops, chic restaurants, ultra-modern condominiums and theme parks to enhance them. There are also international-class hotels and holiday resorts to cater to the more demanding tourists, besides the budget hotels for the cost conscious ones.

All too soon our exhilarating and relaxing holiday came to an end. But we know that we will be back again before long.

Lam Pin Foo
1.11.08

Kyushu, the most southerly of Japan’s four main islands is not yet a popular tourist destination and has never been in the forefront of Japanese history. As my wife and I have already savoured many choice tourist attractions in the more visited regions of Japan, we came to Kyushu recently and were completely captivated by its varied charm and robust allure. Happily for tourism, it is richly endowed with well-preserved Edo-period (1603-1868) towns and villages, delightful hot springs, haunting volcano landscapes, historic cities and monuments, diverse places of interest and rugged scenic splendour.

Among the several fascinating places covered in our itinerary, the city of Nagasaki has made the deepest impression on us because of its colourful history and its horrendous fate during the WWII. Japan’s first encounter with the West in 1543 occurred here, when the Portuguese sailors landed on its shores. This was followed by Portuguese merchants and Jesuit missionaries who were the only Europeans permitted by the Shogunate to trade and preach Christianity there for a time. Chinese traders, mainly from the southern provinces of Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Fujian, also established a foothold in Nagasaki during the 16th century. As they became prosperous, their numbers grew and many became permanent residents. The rest of Japan was closed to all foreign trade until the reign of the visionary Meiji Emperor who in mid19th century opened up the country to foreigners. In doing so, he changed the course of Japanese history.

Nagasaki became the country’s first open port and consequently a European settlement sprang up and became affluent and influential in the life of the people. It has largely retained its unique hybrid indigenous, Chinese and European imprints which permeate its customs, cuisine and way of life. Its name is now known around the world because America’s second atomic bomb was dropped there on 9 August 1945, three days after its earlier bomb had utterly destroyed the industrial city of Hiroshima. Out of a population of 240,000, the Nagasaki blast killed almost 74,000 initially and devastated a significant part of the city. Another 75,000 were injured or contaminated by the explosion. Tens of thousands of these subsequently perished and the death-toll continued to mount until well into the 1980s. Many survivors are still living in the psychological shadow of the bomb in their old age.

Our visit to the must-see Peace Park, the epicentre of the explosion, was an intensely emotional experience. Two imposing statues, one for peace and the other to commemorate those killed, have either symbolic or touching messages exhorting the visitors not to forget this catastrophic happening and hoping that it would not be repeated elsewhere. Groups of disciplined students, with sombre expressions on their faces, were seen bowing in unison in front of these statues and laying floral bouquets before departing. An anti-nuclear bomb organisation has a permanent stand there and was collecting public signatures in support of its ongoing campaign. Scattered in the park were the flattened remains of the once standing buildings, clusters of private properties, civic institutions and public amenities.

At the nearby Atomic Bomb Museum, we viewed the superbly produced exhibits depicting the daily life in Nagasaki, both before and after the devastation, and we were palpably moved and saddened by man’s inhumanity towards his fellow men. The unimaginable and unendurable sufferings inflicted by the deadly bomb and its aftermath were vividly captured in the detailed diary of a heroic Japanese medical professor. He had treated numerous patients, who were injured or exposed to the blast, between 1945 and 1951 when he himself finally succumbed to the contamination.

In stark contrast to the depressing scene at the Peace Park, the sprawling European Settlement called Glover Park, with its 19th century western-style dwellings, civic buildings and tastefully landscaped gardens, has enhanced the cosmopolitan ambience of the city. Sitting on a hillock, it commands a magnificent vista of the lovely harbour, the impressive cityscape, the distant mountains and the picturesque countryside. This park is named after Thomas Blake Glover, a leading British merchant there. Its other attractions include Glover’s sumptuous residence, an elegant Catholic church, two museums showcasing a treasure-trove of artefacts and a myriad of everyday things covering the different phases of Nagasaki’s history. Glover Park’s romantic setting, coupled with the flamboyant life-style of Glover, who married a Japanese geisha, are said to have inspired Puccini’s immortal opera “Madam Butterfly”, which is a fictitious figure.

To round up our brief but enlightening stay in Nagasaki, we toured the two nationally renowned and well-preserved 17th century Buddhist temples, which were commissioned by the Chinese there. Kofukuji, founded in 1620, is the oldest Japanese-style Obaku Zen temple in Japan. It was the last Chinese Buddhist sect to enter the country. Chinese abbots helmed this temple until the 18th century. Sofukuji, established in 1629, is a wholly Chinese-style Obaku Zen temple built for the specific religious needs of the Fujianese community. Constructed by Chinese artisans from Fujian, its architecture style is similar to the older Buddhist temples in Singapore. One of the ancient gates of Kofukuji used to lead to the bustling old Chinatown, which has since moved to its present site. The latter is a lacklustre one-street town, with many Chinese-operated restaurants, pastry shops and provision stores. Most expatriate Chinese had opted to return to China after WWII.

The present day Nagasaki truly reflects the proverbial phoenix that has proudly risen from the ashes of destruction to join the ranks of the modern and prosperous Japanese cities. Its manifold attractions and historical legacies have much to offer both domestic and international visitors. The best times to visit Nagasaki and the rest of Kyushu are between spring, and autumn when their natural beauty is at its most vibrant in brilliant hues and colours.

Five things to do:

• For non Japanese speakers, it is much more convenient and economical to join a package tour offered by the two Japanese airlines and other tour operators here. For independent travellers who prefer more flexibility, be prepared to incur substantially higher costs, even if you simply duplicate the tour itinerary in its entirety.
• Apart from Nagasaki, other interesting places to take in should include:
  • Yufuin, a perfectly preserved Edo era town famed for its shops and secluded traditional Japanese onsen(hot spring) inns, like the pick of those shown on the “Japan Hour” television programme.
  • Kumamoto, which has one of the three most beautiful castles in Japan and an ideal spot for cherry blossom viewing in spring.
  • Kagoshima has unsurpassed scenic wonders, and famous for its onsens and a close-up view of Sakurajima, one of the world’s most active volcanoes.
  • Indulge in an unique hot sand bath in the vacation resort of Ibusuki.
• One’s holiday in Kyushu should include at least a night’s stay in an enchanting traditional Japanese ryokan or onsen inn where one sleeps on a comfortable tatami floor with mattress, relaxes and eats in the adjoining living room and admires the surrounding scenery from one’s own veranda. An onsen bath is de rigeuer and therapeutic.
• The most economical and practical way to enjoy a specialty meal of a town you visit is to buy a takeaway bento lunch which is readily available at food outlets at railway stations, food kiosks or convenient stores.
• Do bring along adequate amount of Japanese currency needed for the trip because credit cards are not commonly accepted in most retail establishments. Also, ATM machines may not be always available when you need them urgently.

As well as two don’ts:

• In well-ordered Japan, never jaywalk at traffic light junctions. Be patient, and wait for the traffic light to turn in your favour before crossing. Any such violations will show you up in a bad light, or may even invite contemptuous stares from the locals or being scolded by them.
• Not many Japanese there speak English. Knowing a few useful Japanese words or phrases will be of great help to you at your lodgings, shops, restaurants, railway stations, with taxi or bus drivers or when asking for directions.

Lam Pin Foo
30.11.07

My wife and I have always enjoyed travelling and it has been a pleasant part of our lives from the time we began our working careers in 1960. During the past decades, we had left our footprints in Asia, including the Middle East, Europe, North America and Australia.

After our retirements from an active career some years back, seeing the world is now one of our chief delights in life. No longer constrained by the limitations and hectic schedules of business travel, we can now afford the luxury of time to savour the disparate allures that each chosen country has to offer and to gain a deeper insight into its culture and society, than would have been possible in our younger days.

Reading up extensively on different countries and ferreting out the less frequented but nevertheless significant places of interest for us to explore had made each of our overseas trips a more stimulating adventure and often aroused our interest in wanting to make a return visit in order to traverse the other parts of the same country. Our criteria for choosing a travel destination are influenced mainly by its depth of history and cultural appeal, including its wealth of ancient monuments and other relics of antiquity, varied scenic beauty, ease of communication and the glorious achievements of its civilisation. Of importance too, the richness of a country’s cuisine, which is often regarded as a hallmark of its civilisation, would certainly enhance our travel experience.

Out of the many countries that we had already visited, those in Asia and Europe have remained our favourite destinations. However, to widen our horizon further, we would very much like to see the vast continent of Africa, Central and South America, other ancient civilisations in the Islamic world, New Zealand and Eastern Europe. We hope to visit some of these in the foreseeable future. Are there any cities or tourist destinations that we had visited which are, in my view, quite unique and are therefore in a league of their own? Yes, ten of them have left indelible imprints on my minds. These are, in alphabetical order, China’s Beijing, Xian and its Silk Route,Egypt’s Cairo and the Nile cruise, France’s Paris, Italy’s Rome, Japan’s Nara, the holy land of Jerusalem and last, but by no means least, Turkey’s Istanbul.

Which is my favourite country so far? Based on my criteria mentioned earlier and also because of my familiarity with its language, customs, way of life and its fascinating history and civilisation, China gets my vote. No other country can surpass it in terms of both the scope and diversity of tourist attractions to cater to visitors of varying tastes and discernment. We had visited many parts of its extensive territory no less than 15 occasions in the past 25 years.

Since its opening up to the outside world in the mid 1970s, the whole world has been flocking there to experience its 5000 years of continuous civilisation and multifaceted splendour. In a little over 3 decades, China has earned its rightful place as the third most visited country in the world, after France and Spain. International tourism experts have confidently predicted that, if its increasing popularity continues, it would overtake France as the world’s number one tourist destination around 2010.

Although China is a magnet to tourists world-wide, there are, regrettably, still weaker sides in its tourism and hospitality sectors which, if not corrected soon, would certainly adversely affect its image and mar the enjoyment of its visitors. Fortunately, these problems are now being tackled more earnestly compared with the 1990s.

Another Asian country, Japan, is taking over from China as our new favourite country to visit, now that we have set foot on the principal regions of the world’s most populous country and savoured many of its foremost attractions. We have come to appreciate Japan more and more as we get to know it better. It has lots of delightful places to excite us, in addition to Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and Nara, which are, of course, must-see cities in that country.

In our newly awakened enthusiasm for Japan and its people and as if to redeem our past neglect, we had, in recent years, made several trips that covered parts of its three main islands, namely Honshu, Kyushu and Hokkaido, which is sparsely populated but has the best seafood and ski resorts in the country. Just a month ago, we also toured the less-visited and largely rural Tohoku region, which is at the north-eastern tip of Honshu and very close to Hokkaido. There the traditional Japanese lifestyle is still being preserved and its inhabitants still retain their peculiar and confusing accent, which often makes them a butt of jokes to other Japanese. They lead a simpler and seemingly more contended life, relatively free from the hustle and bustle of the more stressful life in Tokyo and Osaka.

Tohoku is the agricultural hub of Japan and produces the best fruits and rice in the country. The world-renowned Fuji apples come from there. It is therefore not surprising that many of the natives live off the fertile land as farmers and fruit growers. It is also reputed to have the most beautiful women in Japan. It has natural charm all its own, and everywhere one travels one sees rugged but majestic mountain ranges as backdrop, still active volcanoes, meandering rivers, beautiful lakes, some of the deepest and the most picturesque in the country, famed rustic hot spring inns and resorts, like those so vividly and appetisingly portrayed on the popular long-running Japanese television serial, “Japan Hour”, which has inspired many Singaporeans to visit Japan. Besides these, it has several famed historic towns, replete with period samurai houses, ancient edifices, a nationally renowned castle, many old Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. The Chusonji Temple is the proud custodian of the nation’s number one national treasure, the perfectly preserved 12th century Heian period gold– Buddha and other deity images, which were commissioned by the powerful Lord Fujiwara. Many cultivated Japanese will make a special trip to Tohoku in order to gaze and marvel at these extremely rare masterpieces of Buddhist art.

Tohoku’s largest city is Sendai, which was flattened by American bombs in WWII, but has since been rebuilt into a modern thriving industrial city. However, It lacks touristic charm but is a convenient springboard to several attractions close to it. The people of Tohoku are generally warm, friendly and welcoming to foreigners, who are not a common sight there. For those with East Asian appearances, you would often be taken as a Taiwanese or Korean, and hardly anyone there would guess that you come from tiny Singapore. However, once they found out your nationality, you would be complimented as a representative from that clean and green city.

Our well-organised 7-day tour of this region was made all the more enjoyable because we were fortunate to have a very charming, vivacious, caring and knowledgeable Hong Kong-born multilingual local tour guide, Annie, and a safe and skillful Japanese driver. She anticipated our every need and would make every effort to make tour members feel relaxed and comfortable. They, ably supported by the Singapore tour leader, Ang Poh Teck, is an unsurpassed team for any conducted tour to Japan.

Our growing enchantment with Japan is far from skin deep. The more we have seen of it and having had the opportunity to become better acquainted with its disparate attractions, culture, people, traditions and way of life, the initial fascination has now turned into deep admiration and a firm desire of wanting to return there at regular intervals.

I would now make a few general comments on the Japanese society as I see it , as well as sharing with you later in my commentary my impressions of its people, culture and their everyday life through a Singaporean perspective, with their warts and moles included. Japan was devastated after its defeat in WWII in 1945 and had to start from scratch to rebuild the nation. Their children were dying from the same health problems that the African children are dying nowadays. Fortunately, it received financial and technical help from many countries, especially the United states, and is now the world’s second largest economy, after the US. While some Japanese might claim that “we did it by ourselves”, this would not be true. It desperately needed and did receive aids from others initially. However, one undeniable fact is that, without the patriotism, indefatigable industry, intelligence, skills, sacrifices and cohesiveness of its people, no amount of outside help would have enabled it to rise from the ashes of defeat to become a newly developed nation within a short space of 20 years of the war disaster.

I can still recall vividly that when the first Japanese cars were being marketed in Singapore in the early 1960s, it would take a brave Singaporean to buy a Toyota or a Nissan at substantially lower prices than the then popular British cars, like the Austin and Morris, as Singaporeans were conditioned to believe that these British cars were more reliable and superior. Today, the reverse is true, as these hitherto popular British cars have largely disappeared from the local market and replaced long ago by the technologically more innovative Japanese makes.

Despite being a very affluent country, Japan is essentially a middle-class society, and the monthly income between a university graduate or a professional man vis-a-vis a technician or clerk is far narrower than the case in Singapore, or in other newly developed economies like Hong Kong and Taiwan. Some latest official statistical information on its politicians’ pay versus certain elite private sector earnings make interesting reading. For instance, the Japanese Prime Minister makes 1/2 million Singapore dollars annually, while an established lawyer draws 50% of the PM’s salary and a comparable doctor earns half that of the lawyer. The remunerations of dentists, accountants, engineers, architects and university professors are a little lower.

Japan is, perhaps, the most homogeneous society among the the world’s great nations. Out of a population of about 130 million, only just above 1.5 % are non citizens. Even naturalised foreigners, including those of Japanese descent, will find it difficult to be fully accepted into the conservative Japanese community. It is a common Asian misconception that racial discrimination is predominantly a Western problem. They will be surprised to learn that it exists in Japan too, with its warm, hospitable and cultured population. Let me elaborate. Many Japanese genuinely believe that they are superior to other Asians and that they are the equal of the most advanced Westerners. Hence, there is a tendency for them to look down on other Asians, including the Chinese and Koreans, notwithstanding that the Japanese civilisation owes an eternal debt to these two venerable nations in its earlier development. Among the Japanese themselves, the overwhelming majority are of the Yamato stock. For historical reasons the indigenous Ainus, the Ryukyuans and the Burakumins, are generally despised and considered second class citizens. Even among the Yamato Japanese, those from Tohoku are socially less acceptable to their more sophisticated and snobbish compatriots from the other regions of Honshu, like Tokyo, on account of their peculiar accent and rural background.

Japanese Koreans, many had emigrated to Japan between 1895 and 1945 when Korea was its colony and who have contributed significantly in various fields, still face discrimination today. It is therefore hardly surprising that many were compelled to conceal their ethnicity in order to survive in an otherwise hostile social environment. Those who did not would , invariably, pay dearly for their pride. However, their plight is gradually being ameliorated as the younger Japanese are more open-minded and would champion their cause fearlessly.
Why are my wife and I so captivated by Japan and its people, and what do they have to offer visitors that very few other countries are able to match, besides being endowed with great places for sight-seeing?

Our first indelible impression is that it is, perhaps, the most well-ordered country in the world. The Japanese are disciplined people, public littering and jaywalking are virtually non-existent. The traffic, though congested during busy hours, are orderly as drivers maintain lane discipline and generally observe other road courtesies , unlike their impatient counterparts in Singapore and other Asian countries. The taxi and bus drivers, too, are a well-behaved lot. Hardly any Japanese use mobile phones in public places like in subway trains, buses or restaurants, much less would they do so in cinemas, concert halls or places of worship.

Second, it is a very safe country for both locals and visitors alike, and unaccompanied females can walk the streets of Tokyo and other big cities without being harassed , assaulted or robbed. Pick-pocketing does happen in very crowded places, like the weekend flea mart at Ueno, but the culprits are most likely to be foreign residents!

Third, the politeness, efficiency and professional pride of the Japanese services personnel are renowned throughout the world and their reputation is well-earned. From lift attendants, sales girls to restaurant waiters and other services providers they all play their part to make you feel comfortable and relaxed when being served by them. In all my visits there I had yet to encounter a rude or incompetent services personnel. The old saying that the customer is king has true application there.

Fourth, although corruption in the corporate world and among politicians are quite common, honesty and integrity at a personal level is generally quite exemplary. For example, If one loses a wallet or camera in a crowded public place, chances are its finder will take it to the “Lost and Found” kiosk from whom you can reclaim your lost article. This happened to me when I got back my camera at the Toshogu World Heritage Shrine in Nikko. Also, overcharging tourists in shops or eating places is anathema to their culture. Locals and tourists are charged the same price, whether or not you speak Japanese.

Fifth, the standard of public hygiene is easily one of the highest in the world. The public lavatories wherever you go are invariably clean and well-kept and their misuse is rare. Food hygiene too stands up to scrutiny, from the modest to the posh eating establishments. Hence, few tourists suffer food poisoning through partaking in contaminated food.

Sixth, like Chinese food, Japanese food comes in wide varieties and regional specialties abound and they are so delectable and aesthetically presented as to make Japan a true foodie’s paradise. While the cost of eating there is high compared with many countries, but if you look around or consult your hotel people you can eat more cheaply and well at places that the locals frequent. For the budget conscious tourist, one good and economical way to enjoy a delicious regional speciality is to buy a bento lunch at a railway station and eat it during the train journey. Another way is to buy a box meal at a convenience store and the staff will automatically microwave it for you to be eaten in the comfort of your own hotel.

Seventh, staying in a top traditional Japanese Onsen (hot spring) inn or Ryokan, with a idyllic setting to complement it, and indulging in a soothing bath is good for the body and soul and offer a supreme enjoyment that no modern six-star hotel can hope to match. However, the best of these can make a hole in one’s wallet but as an once in a life time experience, perhaps during one’s honeymoon or golden wedding anniversary, it is worth it. The cuisine is always heavenly, the service impeccable and you will feel like a king or queen while it lasts! On a more realistic plain, one should, perhaps, just settle for a cheaper version, like those so attractively featured on the “Japan Hour” TV show.

Finally, the average Japanese are generally warm , friendly and welcoming to tourists, and treating everyone with politeness is a way of life perfected over the centuries. If you take the trouble to learn a few useful Japanese words and phrases it will ease the language problems. However, with the younger Japanese, quite a few do speak some simple English and, occasionally, you may even come across someone who can converse with you in Mandarin. With the rise of China, more and more Japanese are now learning Chinese for their own career prospects, if not for its intrinsic value.

Despite my generous accolades for Japan and its people, there are certain Japanese traits that may seem peculiar to some first time visitors or those who are unfamiliar with the traditions and culture of this country. The Japanese are a conservative people and few would reveal their true thinking or feelings to others unless they know you intimately. This is true even in the man and woman relationship and the instances of people falling in love at first sight are rare, or if it does happen it will be difficult for the other party to become aware of it until the relationship has deepened. Be that as it may, if a foreign tourist or friend were to criticise their country, they would most likely become very defensive and would vehemently try to correct your views out of pride or patriotism for Japan. Deep within them, they believe that their country and culture are unique and that it is therefore difficult for foreigners to truly comprehend them.

The Japanese are generally poor linguists and are often ill at ease in the company of foreigners, especially if they are compelled to converse in their language. Hence, they would much prefer to be in the company of their compatriots. This can be seen when the average Japanese tourists travel abroad. They would invariably join a Japanese tour group, shop in a Japanese-run establishment if possible, eat in a Japanese restaurant and feel secure in doing so. Those who are more adventurous and travel independently frequently get fleeced by some unscrupulous business operators overseas because they tend to be too trusting, believing that these people would treat them like their counterparts would do in Japan.

Do be forewarned that eating snacks or drinking while walking on a street, though acceptable in Singapore and in the West, is frowned upon there. For a lady to do so, you will unwittingly become a center of attention. I am told that this is only permitted at fairs or festivals. Getting drunk in public is taboo in many cultures and the Chinese would regard it as a disgraceful behaviour reflecting on one’s lack of family upbringing. However, the Japanese tend to take a more liberal view and regard it as human frailty and therefore excusable. It is not uncommon to witness drunken Japanese walking along Tokyo’s entertainment areas, gaily dancing or singing but behaving in a non-threatening manner, without others taking any interest in their display of exuberance. Some would even ease themselves at street corners visible to others, and the male and female passers-by would hardly take any notice of them.

So the Japanese too, are vulnerable human beings when they let their guards down, just like you and me, despite their otherwise dignified mien. All in all, it is truly a delightful country with warm and hospitable people and my wife and I look forward very much to returning there again and again until we have seen enough of it.

Lam Pin Foo
30.10.07