Epiphanies on Interstate-80

October 1, 2009 at 12:00 am (Current Affairs, Guest Writer, Travel)

An article by guest writer Maynard Chen. Refer to “About the Writer” at the end of the post.

February 2nd 2003, San Francisco, California

I started the engine, drove out of my loft in San Francisco and headed towards the Bay Bridge. Light mist enshrouded the bridge as I drove across. My thoughts were a mist of anticipation and apprehension. This was the first time I was driving across the North American continent.

The Tech Stock bubble had burst and Dot-com had morphed into Dot-bomb. Gone were the heady days of lucrative contracts in the technology job market that came with fancy take-out lunches from gourmet restaurants, and free massages to tempt us back into the office on weekends. Goodbye Tech Bubble.

Then 9-11 happened and in the aftermath, the Fed started pushing down interest rates to cushion the stock market crash. It was a time when one could refinance a housing loan without any closing costs to freeze interest rates for 30 years. Six months later one could do it again and ratchet down to lock in at an even lower rate. Housing prices began to soar. The banks made it so easy to take out home equity loans on the rising property values that people began to treat their homes as self replenishing ATM machines. Hello Housing Bubble.

As the owner of both a condo in Cambridge and a loft in San Francisco, I became worried when the housing market got so hot, that rentals started to drop even as housing prices were rising. This paradox came about because many would-be renters, able to qualify for easy financing, had decided to purchase rather than rent. I decided it was time to sell at least one of my properties. Since I had bought the Cambridge townhouse in 1981 it had made substantial capital gains. In order to lessen my tax burden, I had to move to Cambridge and live there for two years in order to qualify for the home owner’s deduction on Capital Gains Tax.

So it came to pass on that cold and wintry day, with my Toyota Camry packed to the gills with my computers and clothes and other worldly possessions, I was driving across the Bay Bridge embarking on a 3000 mile trans-continental journey from San Francisco to Boston. Even my front seat was completely filled with barang-barang, ruling out a tentative idea of taking a friend along to relieve the boredom of driving.

I considered two alternative ways to cross the USA. The southern route was longer but more sensible in winter because there was less likelihood of disruption by snow. I chose however the northern route because of the shorter distance and to avoid having to drive through regions that were reputed to be less friendly to people of color. A friend who was a member of AAA kindly obtained for me free maps for the entire trip. It was going to be essentially driving along Interstate 80 all the way. Security was also a major consideration since I could not hide any of the stuff in my car and I thought that it might be wiser to drive where climate would force most people to be indoors.

Besides the weather and security, my other concern for this trip was boredom, especially since I tend to suffer from highway hypnosis. I resolved to always pull over and take a nap whenever I felt drowsy. A friend made the brilliant suggestion of audio-books. So I assembled an eclectic stack of tapes borrowed from SF library and friends. Along the way I also planned to visit a few friends.

Berkeley was for me at the northern fringe of familiarity in the Bay Area, since I seldom visit Vallejo or the towns beyond. Towards evening I arrived in Sacramento where I spent the night in the apartment of an ex-colleague from Cambridge.

February 3rd 2003, On the road to Wendover, Utah

After Sacramento I began the ascent into the Sierras. This was where one was most likely to encounter snow. I began to listen to Red Azaleas by Anchee Min. It was a poignant semi-autobiographical story of her growing up in China during the Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution. As I drove past Emigrant Gap and Donner Summit(7239 ft) I thought of the early settlers who had passed along the route. The nearby pass is where the Donner party were stuck in the winter of 1846. Of the 81 emigrants, only 45 survived to reach California and some resorted to cannibalism. There couldn’t be anything more disparate and disconnected between the two chains of thought alternating in my mind: Anchee Min’s story of interpersonal struggles as a budding actress in China and the trials and tribulations of the early immigrants pitted against the weather while moving west to California.

Fortunately for me the weather held up, only a light dusting of snow. I turned on the windshield wipers to clear the snow, but something weird was happening. The more I sprayed fluid the dirtier it got! Upon closer examination I realized that the “dirt” was nothing more than the windshield cleaning fluid freezing and turning into slush. I had forgotten that my sunny California windshield wiper fluid did not contain anti-freeze. A new bottle of wiper fluid fixed the problem.

After driving over the Sierras, I crossed my first state border into Nevada – the casino state. The border was quite obvious because of the plethora of gigantic neons inviting you to try your luck and make(or more likely lose) your fortune. It was quite clear they were there to suck money out of California. Despite the glittering neons I did not stop except for gas, food and toilet breaks.

As I approached Wendover on the border with Utah, it was getting dark and I had resolved earlier to stop whenever it got dark so as to avoid getting into a situation where I might be stranded on the freeway at night. If I had engine problems, it would be bitterly cold, and if I was caught in a snowstorm I would not dare to leave the engine running anyway. In the Massachusetts blizzard of ’78, some people who were stranded on the freeway and left their engines on to keep the car warm, died of carbon monoxide poisoning because snow drifts blocked their exhaust vents.

On a lesser scale, at the border with Utah there were neon signs again attempting to suck money from the residents of Utah. I checked into a Motel 6 in Wendover. This is a great chain. The rooms are clean and comfortable, and the prices very reasonable. One advantage of the presence of a gaming industry for non-gamblers like me is the low price of accommodations and meals. I suspect they can afford to subsidize them so as to lure the crowds to the gaming tables.

February 4th 2003, On the road to Laramie, Wyoming

The next morning I passed by Salt Lake City and the Great Salt Lake. One really gets a sense of the size of the North American continent as the flat landscape affords a view that stretches from horizon to horizon.

Soon I crossed another state line. While driving through the bright snowy fields of Wyoming, I started to listen to “Interview with a Vampire”. There could not have been a more striking contrast between the sunny and open cowboy countryside I was passing through and the dark dank claustrophobic atmosphere of New Orleans as described in this novel. Lestat who was an immortal vampire was lonely, so he turned Louis into a vampire for companionship. Louis was a reluctant vampire who found it morally repulsive to kill humans for their blood, so he had to feed on the blood of animals in order to survive. Lestat however had no qualms about feeding upon the slaves in Louis’s plantation in Louisiana. Gradually Louis was persuaded by Lestat to feed on human blood.

I was very glad to pass the time with this tale of moral angst amongst vampires because otherwise the trip would have been numbingly boring. A three thousand mile journey is little more than endless cycles of the buildup and alleviation of biological and mechanical needs:

Begin Loop
If hungry, thirsty or in need of a toilet, then look for a rest stop
If the gas indicator is down to two thirds empty, then scan signs for cheap gas and fill up
Return to the beginning of this loop and repeat infinitely

Lestat fearing that Louis might leave him, turns a young girl into a vampire so as to give Louis a daughter – someone to care for. This leads to treachery as the vampire girl plots with Louis to murder Lestat and then flee to Europe. The novel was diverting without being the least bit scary and it made the day pass quickly. However as evening approached and the bright sunny landscape darkened into twilight, I found that the dark story became more powerful and affecting. At the same time, the gas tank was getting low and soon I would have to find the next Motel 6. As I was scanning for cheap gas, it gradually dawned upon me that gasoline to me was like blood to Louis. I could now understand at a visceral level the rising lust that vampires feel when the strength they derive from fresh blood is slowly drained and a parching thirst for fresh blood develops. To complete the metaphor, I suppose my spending the night in Motel 6 was the equivalent of resting in a coffin during the day for vampires. I laughed aloud at discovering this inadvertent metaphor, because fortunately, I did not have to kill people to fill my tank.

Driving alone day after day with no human interaction except at the most superficial level, is I suppose a form of sensory deprivation, and it is known that extended deprivation can lead to bizarre thoughts, even hallucinations.

Between Rock Springs and Rawlins, I passed over the Continental Divide of the Americas. I stopped to take a photograph of the sign that marked the line. Behind me the rivers drained into the Pacific and before me the rivers flowed into the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico.

Finally I arrived in Laramie where I would spend the night in Motel 6 again. I used to watch a TV series called Laramie when I was in primary school. Never would I have dreamt then that decades later I would spend a night in this town.

February 5th 2003, On the road to Des Moines, Iowa

The next morning I turned on the car radio and there was Colin Powell giving a speech at the UN on Iraq, so I switched off my audiobooks. It was an impressive and convincing speech. He had intricately detailed information about Iraq’s manufacture of weapons of mass destruction. There were satellite photos of mobile biological weapons factories and taped conversations of people actively engaged in concealing WMD from the inspectors. The case for war was getting stronger.

Upon further reflection however, there was something that didn’t quite add up. He was trying to argue that the inspections were a failure because Saddam was successfully hiding his weapons of mass destruction from the inspectors, and he could prove that because he had detailed evidence of their existence and locations. However if the US did indeed have such prodigious and detailed intelligence about these weapons, why didn’t they pass it on to the inspectors so that they could catch Sadddam red-handed? The weapons could then be confiscated and destroyed and the inspections would be a success. Of course then there would be no rationale for an invasion to remove them. He was like the salesmen selling both invincible spears that could penetrate anything, and impenetrable shields.

Just a week before this trip, I had read an essay by Peter Lee in the Smirking Chimp website*, in which he wonderfully captured the essence of the Iraq situation in a single sentence.

“Today the new orthodoxy of war and pre-emption and empire is slouching towards Baghdad waiting to be born.”

In the late afternoon while heading towards Des Moines, I was again anxiously scouting for gas to slake the recurring thirst of my Toyota Camry. I suddenly realized that even though I personally didn’t have to kill anyone for gas, the country was preparing for war, to slake the collective thirst of millions of automobiles like mine.

February 6th 2003, On the road to Ann Arbor, Michigan

While I was hurtling along Interstate 80 towards Ann Arbor, Michigan. I heard an unfamiliar noise. I glanced up and saw V shaped lines slowly traversing the grey and overcast skies. It was a flock of honking geese on their annual migration to warmer climes. I felt a certain affinity for them. Fearing the impending chill of an economic winter, I too was migrating. We were each coasting on individual trajectories towards private destinies…. just as this great nation that I was traversing was slouching towards Baghdad.

Epilogue

I finally reached Boston safely after two detours to visit old schoolmates in Ann Arbor and Toronto. Buoyed by ever more creative financing, the housing market continued to rise during the two years I lived in my Cambridge townhouse, allowing me to sell at a good price and avoid paying a lot of capital gains tax. Then the bubble finally burst. My timing was sheer luck because I thought the housing market was going to crash much sooner, but then I did not anticipate the creativity of the mortgage industry inventing balloon loans, no doc mortgages and liar loans.

Peter Lee’s prophecy came to pass. The unborn beast reached Baghdad when US troops moved into Iraq on March 20th 2003 to hunt for WMD. Two years later the CIA admitted in a final report that no WMD were found in Iraq. Powell told Walters that he felt “terrible” about the claims made in his UN speech. When asked whether it would tarnish his reputation he replied: “Of course it will. It’s a blot. I’m the one who presented it on behalf of the United States to the world, and [it] will always be a part of my record. It was painful. It’s painful now.”

* The essay by Peter Lee is entitled “A few good men … and Condi too” by Peter Lee. Posted on January 23rd 2003 in The Smirking Chimp website. It is no longer available for download, but I saved a copy.

About the Writer

Maynard Chen was a software consultant working in Silicon Valley from 1997 to 2003. He has now relocated to Singapore. © Maynard Chen, All rights reserved 2009.

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Singapore’s Open-air Museum of Historical and Cultural Heritage

August 3, 2009 at 12:00 am (History, Travel)

An article by Lam Pin Foo. Refer to the About page.

Spreading over 18 hectares of prime land in Singapore’s city centre is the sprawling Fort Canning Park, which is named after a British viceroy of India after the founding of modern Singapore in 1819 by Stamford Raffles of British East India Company. It later was converted into a British crown colony.

This scenic and undulating stroll park, whose summit is 60 meters above sea level, is an open-air museum of Singapore’s historical and cultural heritage dating back to the 14th century when it was the governmental and trading hub of the ancient Malay sultanate established by a Sumatran prince who named it Temasek. Remnants of brick foundations of buildings were still visible on the hill after Raffles had some of the surrounding jungle cleared. Unfortunately, these remnants were later demolished by the colonial regime to make way for developments on the hill, which was renamed Fort Canning Hill. Its original name was Bukit Larangan (Forbidden Hill) as the common folks were denied access to it because it housed the royal palace and government facilities. The hilltop has a commanding vista of parts of the the city centre and a good view of the Singapore River.

Regrettably this historical landmark has been largely under-explored by both foreign and domestic tourists, despite its variety of interesting sights and other attractions. Most overseas visitors, who are in Singapore for only a few days, will be more interested in visiting Sentosa, Bird Park, Night Safari, Zoological Gardens, Botanic Gardens and the fabulous and exotic shopping in Orchard Road, Little India, Chinatown and Arab Street. These are commonly accepted as must-see places when in Singapore. Many Singaporeans, too, are not very familiar with this rare gem in their midst and some are simply indifferent to its ancient past.

Before writing this article, I made three separate visits to Fort Canning Park at different times: in the morning, during lunch time and in the early evening. I came upon only a couple of foreign tourists, a small group of school children on a school outing and some office workers eating their box lunch under shady trees. I asked more than a dozen Singaporean friends about the historical relics on this hill, and quite a few had yet to make a trip up there.

There are several entrances to this park: from Canning Rise, Tank Road, River Valley Road and Hill Street. Armed with a comprehensive direction map provided by the park’s information kiosk, a visitor should find it easy to navigate the park in any way his or her interests dictate. For those who are more history or culture inclined, it would give you a better historical perspective to begin your discovery tour of the park with the 14th century History Walk. A series of eye-level concisely-written plagues will tell you the early Singapore history and legends and the significance of Fort Canning Hill and its subsequent development.

As I am interested in history, I would first head for the Archaeological Excavation Site where thousands of artifacts, including whole and broken ceramic pieces, finely fashioned gold and glass ornaments and gold and other minted coins, were dug up in the 1980s. Some of these are from the 14th century, which lends credence to the existence of the flourishing Temasek kingdom. Some historians believe that these gold and glass ornaments came from the various palace workshops on site and they were crafted by highly skilled artisans. An assortment of fragments of these relics are permanently displayed at the site and the more valuable articles are in showcases at the Fort Canning Centre.

In the vicinity of the archaeological trenches is an old tomb called Keramat (Sacred Place) believed to be the burial place of Iskandar Shah, the last of the five rulers of Temasek. However, some scholars have cast doubts on this claim as he was said to have fled to neighbouring Malaya after the fall of his sultanate to foreign invaders and died there. Be that as it may, it is an important and dignified monument fit for a royal personage and well protected by a 14th century-style Malay roof which is supported by 20 elegantly carved wooden pillars of superb workmanship whose motifs are of Javanese provenance.

At the top of the hill is the site of a colonial-style bungalow specially built for Raffles and his family to reside in when he came to Singapore in 1823 for his third and final stay prior to his retirement in England. It stood at a spot which afforded him the best view of the growing township below and the waterfront with international trading ships from Asia, Europe and United States calling at this fledgling but thriving free port which was his brainchild. He and his wife would often spend quality times together at the Raffles Terrace enjoying their English afternoon tea leisurely or watching the beautiful tropical sunset with gin and tonic in their hands.

After Raffles left Singapore, a succession of colonial governors also lived on the hill until 1860 when a pompous incumbent built himself a palatial new home with extensive grounds close to Orchard Road. It is now the official residence of the President of Singapore.

Fort Canning Hill was often depicted in old paintings of Singapore because of its scenic beauty and its sweeping view of the town’s significant landmarks. Some of these can be seen at the Singapore History Museum at the foot of the park. I particularly enjoy gazing at an oil painting of a governor’s garden party at his hill residence, with guests of different races in their resplendent national attires enjoying themselves on the well-manicured rolling lawns with the prospering township in the background.

For the defence of Singapore against possible sea-borne attacks, Fort Canning Hill was converted into a military fortress in 1861 with barracks and other buildings to house the military personnel. It also provided a safe refuge for the local European population in case of riots and other disturbances. Today, a 19th century Fort Gate, and what remains of the fortress, including several old cannons, are still there for all to see. A grand administrative building, which has been converted into the present multi-purpose Fort Canning Centre, was the headquarters of the British Far East command and the office of the commanding officer, Lt-General Percival, before Singapore fell to the Japanese in 1942.

Another of the hill’s historical significance is that a portion of it was set aside as Singapore’s first experimental botanic garden spearheaded by none other than Raffles himself, who was a noted self-taught botanist. He planted food plants like nutmeg, clove, ginger, lemongrass and chillies which later were planted all over the island and became an important contributor to the early Singapore economy. Most of these botanic species are still thriving at the popular Spice Garden in the park.

The governor’s hill bungalows had long been demolished. The famed Raffles Terrace, on whose spacious front lawns many a garden party was held, is gone too. Gone also are the original lighthouse to guide ships in and out of the colony together with the flagstaff on which the Union Jack had proudly flown in front of the governor’s residence. However, a new Raffles Terrace has been constructed and now houses the replicas of three important icons of the past, namely the Lighthouse, Flagstaff and the Time Ball, to remind the park’s visitors of Singapore’s colonial heritage.

Before leaving the historic legacies, there is one last but not the least of the historical sites that visitors must cover before they continue to proceed with their tour of other attractions as well as to savour the park’s scenic charm in order to complete their memorable trip out there.

This is Singapore’s first Christian Cemetery sited at the foot of the park. There are two imposing 19th century Gothic-style entrance gates at either end of it. It was a burial ground from 1822 to 1865 for more than 600 early Singapore residents, two-thirds were British and other Westerners and the rest were mainly Chinese and other Asians. Many prominent colonial officials and community leaders were interred here. Most of these graves were dug up in 1970s as they were in very dilapidated conditions and the human remains removed elsewhere. However, a dozen well-preserved graves are still there at one corner of this former Christian Cemetery. Numerous tombstones have been inset into two brick walls on site as a reminder of its past usage. Many died young in those bygone days, often from fatal tropical deceases, One tombstone summed it up poignantly, ” … came to the East in search of adventure and fortune but instead he found death at a tender age.”

Two well-designed 19th century cupolas still stand at another corner of this former cemetery land. They were probably intended as resting places for visitors to admire the the beauty and tranquility of the park. This former burial ground has been transformed into the spacious Fort Canning Green, and nowadays regular open air musical and theatre performances are staged there by both local and foreign artistes which attract large crowds, right in front of the elegantly impressive Fort Canning Centre.

If a visitor is still energetic enough after all the walking, there are several other places that might be worth seeing. I would single out two of these for mention, Spice Garden and Battle Box.

The Spice Garden provides an interesting contrast to the more history oriented relics at the park. As in Raffles’ original botanic garden, at the Spice Garden one can also see a variety of herb and spice plants such as nutmeg, clove, ginger, chillies and lemongrass, all of these and others are often used in Singapore cuisine to enhance its taste. There are well-trained staff to guide visitors around and to give them a better insight into these food plants.

The Battle Box tells the story of the events leading to the fall of Singapore during WWII. The construction of this 9-meter deep underground bunker started in 1936 and was intended to serve as the “Nerve Centre” of the British army command in the event of war. It has a maize-like complex of 26 rooms, complete with life-like wax figures of British army personnel and their war efforts against the Japanese invaders. To introduce a touch of realism, while the running commentary is going on, the special sound effects enable the visitor to hear the bombing of Singapore outside the underground bunker. It was here that General Percival, British commander in Malaya and Singapore, and his senior officers took the momentous decision to surrender the colony to the Japanese Imperial Army on the fateful day of 15 February 1942. The British surrender was the biggest military defeat in the annals of the British army.

Within walking distance from Fort Canning Park, there are plenty of eating places to suit all budgets and several shopping malls. In addition, there are five museums, namely National History Museum, Peranakan Museum, Philatelic Museum, Singapore Art Museum and Asian Civilisations Museum and other historic and cultural sights for visitors to explore and to get to know Singapore better.

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Impressions of Life in California – America’s Golden State

April 25, 2009 at 1:00 am (Current Affairs, Travel)

Of the states in the United States that my wife and I have visited, California has become the home away from home for us through our regular trips there, usually for about five weeks each time. This is because our second son, his wife and daughter reside there. Their home is in the San Francisco Bay Area, which is less than 30 minutes’ drive form the delightful San Francisco city.

It is with unconcealed pride that Californians call it the Golden State. To them, it is the most livable state in the nation, if not in the world..If challenged, they would readily tell you that it has a mild climate, one of the highest per capita incomes in the United States, good housing and abundance of world-renowned scenic wonders and man-made attractions which others envy and would flock there in order to savour them. To crown it all, California offers the best hope of attaining the American Dream- with its unlimited business opportunities for the industrious, the enterprising and those with vision and determination to match.

One of the largest American states on the “Pacific Rim”, California would have ranked  among the top ten wealthiest countries in the world, had it been a sovereign nation. Dynamic and international in outlook, its major cities, like Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Jose and San Diego are cosmopolitan and thriving. The Silicon Valley, the renowned hi-tech centre, leads the world in cutting-edge computer and other related information technology industries. Stanford University, the cradle of computer wizards, plays a vital role in making this possible.

California has a diversity of races and cultures: less than 70% are whites and the rest are mainly of Hispanic, African and Asian descents. It is estimated that, by the middle of this century, the white population is likely to be in the minority. A hallmark of Californians is that they are casual, friendly and helpful to visitors. Their dress-code and lifestyle, whether at work or at play, generally reflect their easygoing way of life. One of their endearing qualities is their engaging frankness and penchant for straight talking. Its not difficult to get along with them after the initial cultural adjustment. Property prices, especially in the San Francisco Bay Area, which includes the Silicon Valley, and in the exclusive enclaves in Los Angeles are among the most expensive in the country; but they are cheaper than comparable properties in land-hungry Hong Kong, Tokyo or Singapore.

Suburban life is safe, comfortable and relaxing. Most middle income families have two cars out of sheer necessity and convenience for work or family needs. American housewives are highly efficient and busy with house work, buying groceries, taking their children to and from school and other activities and still manage to make time for the occasional social engagements. As a consumer society, the consumers are well protected by law against shoddy goods and unfair trade practices. Retail outlets will make full refunds without questions asked, if dissatisfied customers return the merchandise within the stipulated period. This has helped boost sales and bolster consumer confidence.

In my view the Americans are indisputably the most innovative and efficient marketers in the world. Their sales personnel are well trained and knowledgeable. This is amply demonstrated whether one is buying a piece of furniture, a dress, a bottle of wine or any other goods at department stores or elsewhere. The fast food industry, as epitomised by McDonald’s which enjoys phenomenal success globally, is another triumph for the American marketing know-how and management philosophy. Its modus operandi is to maximise business turnover by offering products at value for money prices. It aims at attracting the optimum number of customers into their premises continuously, and to turn them out in the shortest possible time in order to make room for the next group of customers. However, on the corporate scene, the employee cannot always take his job security for granted. Staff at all levels are routinely retrenched due to company re-organisations or adverse economic conditions. This, coupled with job changes for other reasons, frequently resulted in their being relocated to the other states with disruptions to family life and children’s education. An average business executive probably switches jobs at least four or five times in his entire career.

The fame and effectiveness of the American self-help groups is known far and wide and is worthy of praise. I was deeply impressed by the display of this during a massive power failure some years ago, which seriously affected many parts of California and as far as the neighbouring Mexico. For example, despite the fact that the traffic lights at all major road junctions in the Bay Area went out of order, and with no policemen to direct traffic, the Californian drivers, with commendable calm and civic discipline, took it upon themselves to self-regulate the traffic flow painstakingly and unselfishly, thus averting chaos and serious accidents which would otherwise have occurred. I cannot imagine such disciplined motoring behaviour occurring in other countries.

I was also moved by their humanity towards their disabled fellow citizens. Many special amenities are made available to them at considerable cost so as to enable them to lead as normal a life as possible. Those in wheel chairs can move about confidently on their own as there would always be people to help them whenever needed. Likewise, senior citizens enjoy numerous concessionary privileges in travels, hotels, transportation, food and entertainment outlets, hospitalisation and so forth, on a scale unmatched by most countries. The American society is perhaps the freest and the most liberal in the world. Freedom of speech is considered a cornerstone of democracy and a safeguard against tyranny. It is so deeply entrenched that an individual and the media can severely criticise, ridicule or even defame the government or any public figure, often with impunity. On the debit side, such a right, unless exercised responsibly, can lead to reverse tyranny by the unscrupulous and those with an axe to grind.

On the other hand, California has the dubious distinction of being the home of bizarre religious cults, hippie-ism and hotbed of racial tensions; San Francisco had its Flower People, the devastating Rodney King racial riots some years ago took place in Los Angeles and the Heavenly Gate mass suiciders ended their lives mysteriously in San Diego in the past decade. American cities have to tackle a multitude of social ills, and the Golden State is no exception. Foremost among them are high rate of crimes and drug addictions. Apart from hardcore drug addicts, more and more American youths are drawn to marijuana or other drugs due to peer pressures or simply out of curiosity or boredom. The institution of marriage is being dangerously eroded. It has become increasingly fashionable for young people to cohabit outside of wedlock. A significantly high percentage of marriages have ended in divorce. Single-parent households are now commonplace and it has been proven that children from broken homes are more likely to succumb to dire social problems.

An anti-establishment mentality among many younger Californians is clearly discernible. This is reflected in markedly falling church attendance among them and their rejection of the traditional American values of hard work and thrift. Despite a booming economy in recent years, it is a common sight to see able-bodied men and women, sometimes with a child in tow, begging for money to buy food. Homeless people sleeping on the sidewalks or in parks have ceased to be a novelty in this land of plenty. In addition, many are being cared for by welfare and self-help organisations when they should be working. Be that as it may, it will be fallacious to judge Americans and their value systems from an Asian standpoint, given the differences in our respective cultural, social, economic and political backgrounds and developments. Nevertheless, some of their remarkable achievements and character traits are worthy of emulation by others. At the same time, one should avoid certain of their pitfalls which have adversely affected the cohesiveness of their society.

What draws Singaporeans and other Asians to set up businesses, to seek employments or to emigrate to California? I spoke to two Singaporeans about their impressions of life there. Elaine, a California-educated computer graphics designer who and her husband have worked in the Silicon Valley for many years now, said:

“We like it here because of the enlightened and positive attitude of the people – open and supportive of innovative ideas and would readily impart skills and knowledge to newcomers. They are not so set in routines, and superficial fashion trends and brand-name consciousness have less importance to them than people back home.”

Elaine simply adores the varied recreational activities there to satisfy all groups. For the young, there are the world famous theme parks, the health-minded will be thrilled by the considerable variety of national parks and sandy beaches and those with cultivated tastes can make wine-sampling trips to vineyards or participate in the vibrant arts scenes.

“On the minus side, its difficult to relate to the people here, most of whom have lived a childhood and teenage experience entirely different from ours. What we miss and yearn for most is not being able to share joys with close family members and friends and to partake in simple everyday activities together.”

Having lived in five different states in the United states, Elisabeth feels most at home in California. An arts graduate from a famed British University and a freelance theatre designer, her work takes her to San Francisco and other parts of the country.

“Geographically and culturally, Asia is never very far away here in the Bay Area. Historically, California, particularly San Francisco, has had the highest percentage of Chinese residents in the United States. The cultural mix here is diverse and there are places where I could almost imagine myself in Singapore.

“San Francisco offers world class opera, ballet and symphony concerts. Theatre ranges from Broadway shows to hole-in-the wall experimental companies where patrons take pot luck. Oddly, despite the Bay Area’s counter-culture history, tastes in the arts tend towards the conservative like back home.”

To Elisabeth, the attractiveness of California also conditions its drawbacks. “This is a state of quakes. Both geographically and culturally the region is a constantly shifting, volatile and a hotbed of activity, erupting with the latest cultural fads one moment, swallowing whole buildings the next.

“One learns to let go of dependence on stability here. Silicon Valley companies are notorious for frequent cycles of hiring and firing, triggered by an almost neurotic sensitivity to market changes. Change is revered here rather than history and tradition. For those with the courage, savvy and good fortune to survive the cataclysms, life is a heady adventure; the homeless who litter the landscape bear testimony to those who do not.”

My wife and I had just returned from a five-week stay with our second son and family in California. Time really flew as we were so lovingly welcomed with homely comfort and care, enjoying delicious Chinese and Western food expertly cooked by our daughter-in-law and travelling together at weekends to various interesting places. There was always much laughter at meal times, with our little US-born granddaughter holding center stage! We and the rest of the Lam family in Singapore very much look forward to their home-coming in December. The entire family will then have a week-long vacation at a beach resort in the region, just like we did in December 2007.

When our granddaughter was born, My wife and I were there intending to give a helping hand to our son and daughter-in-law during their initial period of parenthood. As it turned out, they both were well prepared for it. They managed to shoulder almost all the childcare responsibilities smoothly and efficiently between them. One week after the baby’s arrival, our daughter-in-law was already on her feet again doing the normal household chores, with the rest of us giving whatever support whenever needed. Fortunately for them, their professional work can be done at home in this computer and Internet era and with flexible time schedules. They live in a cosy three-bedroom bungalow, and the spacious rear garden has a variety of fruit trees. A part-time domestic helper comes in once a week to tidy up the whole house.

Our three-year plus granddaughter is pretty, smart and energetic. She was toilet-trained when younger and the parents have moulded her into an independent-minded and self-reliant little girl compared with most kids her age back home. She can feed herself, and has already learned to ski at the Lake Tahoe ski site and also ice skating at the neighbouring ice skating rink. She is particularly adept at playing the educational computer games, having been tutored by her computer engineer father. She can also draw quite creatively, a gift inherited from her artistic jewelery designer mother. But, like all kids her age, she can be awkward at times but have been taught to apologise when her usual cheerful and chatty mood returns! She has been attending kindergartens for some time now. Two days a week she goes to a half day English language one and the other two days she switches to a full day Mandarin-speaking class. She takes to these two kindergartens like fish to water, and gets on famously with the kids and the teachers. Her parents are hoping that she will become bilingual and not forgetting her Singaporean roots.

Our recent visit coincided with the deepening of the most severe US recession since the Great Depression of the 1930s, brought about by the follies, greed and complacency of those in charge of the large financial institutions. It will take quite some time before normalcy prevails again, despite the premature optimism articulated by some leading Western politicians and financial experts that its end is already in sight. To the more astute observers, they were merely whistling in the dark, to use an apt English expression. The IMF has refuted this misplaced optimism and warned that the economic turmoil still has some way to go.

The following statistical information, gleaned from the leading US national newspapers, make sombre reading. National unemployment had reached 8.5% at end March and would escalate further to 10-11% by 2010. In the Golden State itself, it had already exceeded 10.5%. Insolvency, retrenchments and foreclosure of properties had attained a new height and those fortunate enough to retain their jobs would invariably have their pay cut. Seven out of ten Americans had debts of one kind or another to pay, and some 15% of them had no health insurance coverage whatsoever as it is very expensive. Homeless people were multiplying fast and had become a common sight. Many had, perforce, resorted to begging in order to survive in this land of abundance.

How did the average Americans cope with this economic turmoil? Based on random media surveys:

  • 60% are under stress, 31.5% seriously.
  • Many of the above have become depressed.
  • They cut back on vacation and eating out, spending less, even postponing seeing doctors or go for medical tests, save on children’s extra-curricular activities, don’t change cars and avoid buying big ticket items.
  • Many American Dreams have been shattered.
  • An increasing number of naturalised citizens had either returned to their original home country for better job prospects or have plans to do so.

At the shopping malls, or shops elsewhere, shoppers were few and far between despite substantial reductions in normal prices. Many shops had already gone out of business and more will follow. Upmarket restaurants were even more badly hit, but fast food joints were still doing brisk business. We went to a popular theme park for children on a Sunday and the attendance was much lower than during the happier times.

What was incredible and so blatantly irresponsible was that, in the midst of this financial tsunami, several Fortune 500 corporations of international reputation, who had to be financially bailed out by the Government with enormous public funds, had taken it upon themselves to pay out hundreds of millions of bonuses to their CEOs and other top executives who had grossly mismanaged their companies and had brought them to the brink of collapse!

In the face of such adversity, life goes on as usual in the part of California that I was in. The man on the street was still as courteous, civil and welcoming to visitors as I had experienced previously. Those I met were utterly outraged by the gross corporate misdeeds caused by the stupidity and rapaciousness of those in charge and by the horrendous crimes perpetrated by the disgraced financial tycoons who had defrauded the public out of their hard-earned life savings. On the brighter side, they spoke highly of the new Obama administration and pinned their hopes that the newly elected president will get the country out of its current mess and restore it to its former prosperity and glory. I am confident that the United States will survive this financial crisis, given its tremendous economic, industrial and technological base and the resilience of its people. It will, in my view, emerge wiser and economically more robust than before. This will be good for the rest of the world too.

Finally, I wrote a commentary piece in 2000 on the dot.com. bubble of that time, which had contributed to a milder US recession that followed. It was published in the Bilingual Commentary Column of Singapore’s leading Chinese language daily, Lianhe Zaobao. I now post the article, entitled “What Makes Silicon Valley So Successful and Unique?” immediately below for the interest of readers.

Lam Pin Foo
25.4.2009

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Malacca: A City of Eclectic Cultures

October 17, 2008 at 12:00 am (Travel)

Malacca, the oldest Malaysian city, was founded by a Sumatran prince in exile, Parameswara, in the rear 1396, and became the first sultanate kingdom among the various states in Malaya. Its golden era was the reign of Sultan Mansur Shah (1458-1477), when it rose to be one of the well-known entreports in the world and an international emporium. Its fame attracted Chinese, Indian, Arab and Southeast Asian traders, with their myriad goods and produces, to trade in the city. Some of the traders subsequently settled and raised their families here and their descendants have helped to mould its plural society into what it is today.

The Kingdom of Malacca came to a tragic end in 1511. It was ruled, successively, by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British and the Japanese for close to 450 years, all of whom left their varying marks. It became a state of independent Malaya in 1957.

It has achieved many firsts in its turbulent but glorious history. Islam reached Malaya from the Middle East via  Malacca. It has the oldest extant Chinese temple, Christian church, Islamic mosque and Hindu temple in present day Malaysia and neighbouring Singapore; and Tengku Abdul Rahman, the first premier of both Malaya and later Malaysia, first broke the news of Malaya’s impending independence from the British colonial rule to a cheering crowd of 50,000 here. Malaysia came into being in 1963 and now comprises not only the former states of Malaya but also Sarawak and Sabah, with its capital in Kuala Lumpur.

Malacca shares several similarities with another ancient city in Vietnam, Hoian. Both have the rare distinction of having the entire city conferred the coveted World Heritage Site status by UNESCO, both have many centuries old monuments and other historic buildings of Asian and European vintages in very good state of preservation, as well as the fusion of eastern and western cultures, as it, too, was a significant international trading port in  its heyday. Also,  just like Malacca, Hoian was colonised by foreign powers before Vietnam regained its independence.

Malacca  has always been one of the favourite weekend holiday destinations of Singaporeans, as it is only about 220 kilometers from Singapore and it takes about three hours by car to reach there travelling along Malaysia’s excellent North-South Highway. The completion of the Second Link at Tuas, which connects Singapore to Malaysia by a splendid new causeway, is a real boon to Singaporean motorists bound for Malaysia’s historic city of Malacca and further north to Kuala Lumpur and beyond. It has greatly relieved perennial traffic congestion at the older causeway, especially at peak hours and holiday period. Many Singaporeans own seaside condominium apartments in Malacca as their second homes as they are much cheaper than those across the causeway.

Recently, my wife and I had a most enjoyable motoring experience using this new link en route to Malacca for a three-day stay. We cleared the respective immigration checkpoints in next to no time, a commendable feat compared with the three-hour bumper-to-bumper traffic jam we got ourselves into at both ends of the older causeway in last December.

The initial drive to Senai along the expressway was a breeze. The refreshing sight of the seemingly endless stretch of palm oil plantations, bathed in brilliant sunlight and surrounded by vast expanses of uncultivated land with distant mountain peaks, contrasted starkly with the highly-urbanised cityscape of land-hungry Singapore. Arriving at Senai about half an hour later, we entered the  North-South Highway for a straight and smooth two-hour drive to Malacca, exiting at Ayer Keroh.

One often reads about heart-breaking fatal accidents on this highway, sometimes involving whole families. For our own safety, I drove safely and defensively and was ever vigilant in keeping to the speed limit of 110 km. I was also on the constant lookout for reckless drivers and inconsiderate road users, not to mention the occasional straying animals.

Despite its small size, Malacca has much to offer visitors. There are more than fifty attractions listed by the local tourism board, with twenty within the city precincts and the others in the outskirts. With limited time available, and being a regular visitor as it is one of my family’s preferred Malaysian destinations, we decided to take it unhurriedly in order to soak in the ambiance of our favourite spots, and leaving the others for our next trip.

Happily for tourists, many of the popular attractions are conveniently situated in the old town and are best covered by foot or trishaw, whose bilingual rider can cheerfully double up as a knowledgeable guide at no extra cost! But do agree on the fare first.

Our first stop was the History Museum, which is appropriately housed in the Stadhuys, a massive 17th century Dutch edifice. It was the administrative hub of the colonial offices and residence of the Dutch governor and it dominates the entire old town square. This gave us an excellent overview of Malacca’s colourful past and its subsequent development.

Right next door is the impressive Christ Church built by the Dutch, which dates back to 1753. Its original church organ and hand-made pews are still in very good condition. The church bell predated it and is of early 17th century vintage. It is still a thriving church and one of the most visited tourist spots here. There are a couple of notable Catholic churches in other parts of town that are well worth a visit for their outstanding architecture and historical significance.

We continued walking a short distance to the Santiago Gate, the only surviving gate of the once mighty Portuguese fortress built immediately after their conquest of Malacca in 1511. Within its original walls were  churches, hospitals, schools, the governor’s residence and living quarters of other senior government officials. The fortress, which is the pride and the most recognisable landmark of the city, was severely damaged, but later repaired, by the Dutch during their successful siege of Malacca in 1641. It was blown to smithereens by the British occupation forces in 1807 for fear that it might otherwise fall into a hostile hand.

Behind Santiago Gate is the famous ruins of St Paul’s Church, completed around 1520, which sits at the top of St Paul’s Hill which can be reached by concrete steps. The body of the highly-venerated Jesuit priest, St Francis Xavier, a frequent visitor to Malacca and who died in 1552, was interred at this church temporarily before being removed to Goa in India for final entombment. There are many old Portuguese and Dutch tomb stones scattered among the ruins.

From colonial Portuguese and Dutch relics, we climbed up the Bukit China (Chinese Hill), which is some distance from town. It has a fascinating history and is reputed to be the largest Chinese burial ground outside of China. Old tombs abound, with some dating back to the 16th century. Many still have inscriptions on them revealing the identities of the tomb occupants.

The first Chinese probably settled in Malacca during the 15th century. However, following the epic sea voyages of the great Chinese admiral and explorer Zhenghe to Nanyang, including Malacca, and as far as East Africa from 1405-1433 China’s prestige overseas rose immensely, and more Chinese migrated to Malacca and other parts of Southeast Asia. They were warmly received by the natives.

Many legends of the Admiral’s exploits in Malacca have been passed down from generation to generation. An 18th century temple, the Sam Po Kong, is dedicated to his memory. It is at the foot of Bukit China. There is a romantic story about the origins of Bukit China. When Sultan Mansur Shah married Princess Hang Li Poh, a daughter of a Ming emperor, he built her a palace on this hill, with living quarters for the imperial bride and her entourage of 500. He also decreed that it be for the exclusive use of the Chinese community in perpetuity, a promise the state government still honours today. Whether this marriage did happen has never been firmly established and the official Ming History did not record it.

The Cheng Hoon Teng Chinese Taoist temple was founded by Kapitan Tay Hong Yong, the local Chinese chief, in mid-1600s. It is well-preserved, and has elaborately-carved wood works and exquisite stone sculptures as well as delightful lacquer pieces for adornments. It is a must-see for its Ming style architecture when one visits Malacca.

Across the road from the temple is the historic Kampong Kling’s Mosque, which is about  250 years old. Its architectural uniqueness is reflected in the harmonious fusions of  Moorish, Chinese and European influences.

No visit to Malacca is complete without taking a leisurely stroll down the narrow Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, commonly called the Millionaires’ Row. Built as the town houses of the wealthy Peranakan (local-born) Chinese families, many of these sumptuous terrace houses, measuring some 60 meters from front to rear with courtyards, are 200 to 300 years old. Some are still lived in by the original owners’ descendants, while others had been converted into art galleries and other commercial enterprises.

To experience the once lavish lifestyle of the affluent Babas and Nyonyas, the local-born Chinese men and women , we dropped in at the Peranakan Heritage House, which had an interesting and informative conducted-tour for a small admission fee, to experience the way of life of of the rich here in their heyday before WW II. It was well worth a visit. I was most impressed by the exquisite teak and gold-gilted staircase leading to the spacious living quarters.

When the Portuguese conquered Malacca, they encouraged their men to marry local women and they also brought over from Portugal their own women to be the wives of the high-born local Malay men. They believed that mixed marriages will ensure that their rule will continue indefinitely as these descendants would owe allegiance to Portugal and be proud of their heritage. Thus, the Portuguese Settlement came into being and is still inhabited by their descendants. The more ambitious among them had long ago sought greener pastures in Singapore or Kuala Lumpur and many had become prominent civil servants, lawyers or doctors. Those who stayed behind generally earn their living as fishermen or run modest restaurants or provision shops at the settlement, which is in a suburb of the town. It is not a popular tourist spot except for those interested in Malacca history.

To round off our sightseeing in Malacca, we boarded a large Chinese junk for a 45-minute cruise with commentary on the Malacca River. It had played an important role in the history of this ancient city, especially in its international maritime trade, the daily life of its residents and in its defence against the invading forces. We passed very close to the old quarters, with their centuries old houses and other well known landmarks and old settlements. These gave us a better insight into this delightful town and its changing fortunes through the vicissitude of times. I will certainly recommend this interesting and informative cruise to all visitors.

Jalan Hang Jebat, the renowned Antiques Row, runs parallel to the Millionaires’ Row, and boasts of more than 50 antique shops and art galleries. A few even have cafes at the rear. It is de rigueur for all visitors to spend an enjoyable time here to browse and, perchance, to find an exceptional bargain! Among the good buys are antique Nyonya silver belts and other Peranakan ornaments. Some Singaporeans are drawn to reproductions of antique Malacca furniture and old Nyonya ware porcelain with its polychrome of colours.
Yet another delight is the ubiquitous Peranakan food, being a mixed Chinese and Malay cuisines, which has a distinctive and unique flavour all its own. Although the dishes are somewhat limited in variety,  they are so delicious that it is easy to be addicted to it.

We love coming to Malacca from time to time because of its medieval feel and laid-back charm of a bygone age. We particularly enjoy traversing its back lanes and alleyways which make us feel like being transported back in time to the 19th century.

Be that as it may, Malacca is no longer a “sleepy hollow” it once was. Several new townships have sprung up, with quality shops, chic restaurants, ultra-modern condominiums and theme parks to enhance them. There are also international-class hotels and holiday resorts to cater to the more demanding tourists, besides the budget hotels for the cost conscious ones.

All too soon our exhilarating and relaxing holiday came to an end. But we know that we will be back again before long.

Lam Pin Foo
1.11.08

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